How to Transplant Azaleas
It happens to all gardeners eventually: A favorite perennial or shrub is in the wrong place, and needs to be moved. Transplanting azaleas is no different.
If it’s an azalea, you’re in luck because azaleas have shallow roots, are easy to dig up, and recover quickly from the stress of moving. Even mature azaleas can be moved if you are careful to minimize damage to the root systems. Read on if you are interested in learning how to transplant azalea bushes.
Shop Azalea Shrubs
- Lavender Formosa Azalea - The Lavender Formosa is a big, bold grower that puts on a jaw-dropping show of soft lavender-purple blooms every spring, and once it's settled in, it's about as tough and carefree as a shrub gets in the South.
- Red Ruffles Azalea - Red Ruffles lives up to its name with ruffled, semi-double red blooms that practically stop traffic in the spring garden. It grows into a full, rounded shrub and is a fantastic choice for adding a bold pop of color to borders or foundation plantings.
- George Taber Azalea - George Taber is one of the most popular azaleas in the South for good reason: its large, light pink blooms with a distinctive darker throat are stunning, and it grows vigorously into a full, impressive shrub. We've grown countless George Tabers over the years and it never disappoints.
- Autumn Empress™ Azalea - The Autumn Empress is part of the Encore series, which means you get that beautiful show of large, rich pink blooms in spring AND again in fall, something most azaleas simply can't offer.
- Red Formosa Azalea - The Red Formosa is a classic Southern landscape staple, boasting brilliant, deep red blooms in spring on a large, fast-growing plant that can really make a statement in the yard. It's one of the toughest azaleas we grow and handles the heat and humidity of the Southeast like a champ.
- GG Gerbing Azalea - GG Gerbing is a showstopper in early spring, covered in large, pure white blooms that look stunning against its deep green foliage, and it grows into one of the bigger azaleas you'll find, making it perfect for privacy screening or a dramatic focal point. We love recommending this one to folks who want a clean, classic look in their landscape.
- Autumn Amethyst® Encore® Azalea - The Autumn Amethyst Encore Azalea brings gorgeous violet-purple blooms to your garden not just in spring, but again through summer and into fall, giving you color when most everything else has faded. It's a medium-sized, well-behaved shrub that works beautifully in containers or mixed beds, and that purple color is honestly hard to beat.
When to Transplant Azaleas
The best time to transplant azaleas is in early spring or fall, and even then, you want to pick your moment carefully. Aim for early morning or late afternoon on a cool, cloudy day, and avoid moving any azalea during an extended dry stretch or when daytime temps are pushing above 80°F. You can absolutely move an azalea without doing this first, but root-pruning ahead of time means a faster, stronger recovery and a lot less stress on the plant, and honestly, a lot less stress on you too.
Pro Gardener Tip: The single biggest thing you can do to set yourself up for success is to root-prune a full year before the move. It gives the roots time to tighten up and prepare for the transition.
How to Prune Azalea Roots Before Transplanting
Root pruning is the single best thing you can do before transplanting azaleas, and the process is simpler than most people expect. Dig a donut-shaped trench all the way around the azalea, 8 to 12 inches out from the trunk, about six inches wide and a foot deep. This severs the shallow outward-growing roots and signals the plant to grow new, compact fibrous roots right in that zone. Fill the trench back in with the same loosened soil and give it about a year before making the move. One thing worth knowing: most azalea roots are shallow, not deep, so when it comes time to dig, go wider rather than deeper. The wider your dig, the more root mass you preserve and the better your transplant will go.How to Transplant Azaleas Step by Step
When you're ready to move the azalea, ideally about a year after root pruning, follow these steps for the best results:
- Prune the top first. Cut the azalea's foliage back by about one-third before you dig. This reduces stress on the root system and encourages healthy new growth once it's settled in its new home.
- Dig the new hole first. Make it a foot or two wider than the root ball and roughly the same depth. Do not add fertilizer to the hole as this can burn tender, vulnerable roots.
- Free the root ball. Slice a clean circle just outside the original root-prune trench, 12 to 18 inches deep. If you skipped root pruning, cut 12 to 18 inches out from the trunk. Water thoroughly, then work the shovel all the way around and up under the root mass to lift it, keeping as much soil intact as possible.
- Use a tarp. Slide a tarp under the root ball and wrap it up the sides before moving the shrub anywhere. The root ball must stay constantly moist and the plant must stay shaded from the moment it comes out of the ground until it goes into its new hole. Any fibrous hair roots that dry out will die.
- Set it at the right depth. Drop the root ball into the new hole and backfill with the same native soil you dug out, stopping a few times to water as you go. This settles the soil around the roots and eliminates air pockets. Make sure the shrub sits at the same depth it was growing before, not deeper.
What to Do After Transplanting Azaleas
The work is not over once the azalea is in the ground. The first few months after transplanting are critical, and a little extra attention now means a healthy, thriving shrub for decades to come!
Watering After Transplanting Azaleas
- Water daily for the first two weeks. This is non-negotiable. Thorough, consistent watering is what keeps a freshly transplanted azalea alive while its roots reestablish.
- Build a watering dike. Mound up a ring of soil a few feet out from the trunk to create a basin that holds water directly over the root zone, letting it soak in rather than run off.
- After the first two weeks, water deeply once a week or whenever the soil gets almost dry. Do not keep the soil constantly wet as this cuts off oxygen to the roots and can lead to rot.
Mulching After Transplanting Azaleas
- Cover the ground around the trunk, out a foot or so beyond the root zone, with 3 to 6 inches of organic mulch.
- Keep mulch 1 to 2 inches away from the trunk itself to prevent rot.
- Good mulch options include pine needles, bark chips, dry leaves, straw, hay, or well-rotted compost.
- Since azaleas are acid-loving plants, avoid any mulch with a basic or alkaline pH. Pine needles and bark chips are naturally acidic and are our top picks here at Perfect Plants.
What to Watch For
Transplanted azaleas are more vulnerable to dehydration and disease than established shrubs, so keep a close eye on yours for the first several months. If your plant is not getting at least an inch of rain per week, make up the difference yourself. With consistent watering, proper mulching, and a little patience, your azalea will bounce back beautifully. When it comes to landscaping with azaleas, you absolutely can change your mind and move them successfully, as long as you do it at the right time of year and give them the care they need to settle in.
